The pastrami sandwich is an icon of deli culture, a quintessential comfort food with a rich history that spans continents, cultures, and centuries. What began as a method of preserving meat evolved into a culinary symbol of immigrant ingenuity and the enduring love of flavorful, satisfying food. Let us explore the origins of pastrami, its journey to becoming a staple in American cuisine, and the iconic establishments that have kept its legacy alive.
What Is Pastrami?
Pastrami is a type of cured, smoked, and seasoned meat, traditionally made from beef brisket, although other cuts like navel or even turkey are sometimes used. The preparation involves several stages:
1. Curing: The meat is brined with a mixture of salt, sugar, and spices, which preserves it and infuses it with flavor.
2. Seasoning: A spice rub, typically including black pepper, coriander, garlic, mustard seeds, and paprika, is applied to the cured meat.
3. Smoking: The meat is smoked, imparting a deep, smoky flavor and a tender texture.
4. Steaming: Finally, the pastrami is steamed, making it incredibly tender and ready to be sliced thin and served.
The result is a flavorful, melt-in-your-mouth meat that pairs perfectly with rye bread, mustard, and a pickle—the classic pastrami sandwich.
Origins: Where Did Pastrami Begin?
The story of pastrami begins in Eastern Europe, particularly among Jewish communities in Romania. The name itself is derived from the Romanian word pastramă, which refers to a method of preserving meat through salting, drying, and smoking. Traditionally, pastramă was made with mutton or goose rather than beef.
Romanian Jews brought pastramă to the United States during the great wave of immigration in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Arriving primarily in New York City, these immigrants adapted the recipe to local tastes and ingredients. Beef, more widely available and affordable in the United States, replaced mutton as the primary meat for pastrami.
The Birth of the Pastrami Sandwich
The pastrami sandwich as we know it today likely originated in the bustling delis of New York City. While no single person can be credited with inventing the sandwich, one name often cited is Sussman Volk, a Lithuanian Jewish immigrant who is believed to have served the first pastrami sandwich in 1887. According to legend, Volk received a recipe for pastrami from a Romanian friend as repayment for a favor. He began selling the meat in sandwiches at his butcher shop, and its popularity led him to convert the shop into a deli.
The sandwich quickly became a hit among New York’s diverse population. Jewish delis, which proliferated in the early 20th century, played a significant role in popularizing pastrami sandwiches, offering them as a hearty, affordable meal for workers and families.
Pastrami’s Rise in Popularity
By the mid-20th century, pastrami sandwiches had become a quintessential part of New York City’s culinary landscape. Delis like Katz’s Delicatessen (founded in 1888) and Carnegie Deli (opened in 1937) became legendary for their towering pastrami sandwiches, which featured generous piles of thinly sliced pastrami on rye bread with mustard.
Pastrami’s popularity spread beyond New York City thanks to the growing visibility of Jewish-American cuisine. Hollywood films and television shows often featured iconic deli scenes, further cementing the pastrami sandwich as a cultural touchstone. By the late 20th century, it had become a staple in delis and diners across the United States.
How Pastrami Is Made: The Art and Science
The process of making pastrami is as much an art as it is a science. It requires patience, skill, and a deep understanding of flavor. The key steps are:
1. Selecting the Meat: While brisket is most common, the “plate” cut, or navel, is preferred by some traditionalists for its higher fat content and rich flavor.
2. Curing: The curing process can take up to a week. The meat is submerged in a brine solution that not only preserves it but also allows the spices to penetrate deeply.
3. Spice Rub: The spice mix is essential to the pastrami’s signature flavor. Each deli often has its own secret recipe, passed down through generations.
4. Smoking: The meat is smoked for several hours, adding complexity to the flavor profile.
5. Steaming: Before serving, the pastrami is steamed to rehydrate it and make it tender enough to slice paper-thin.
Where Pastrami Is Most Popular
While pastrami sandwiches are available across the United States, they remain most closely associated with New York City. The city’s Jewish delis, many of which have been operating for over a century, are still considered the gold standard for pastrami.
Iconic Pastrami Destinations:
1. Katz’s Delicatessen (New York, NY): Famous for its overstuffed pastrami sandwiches and its appearance in When Harry Met Sally…, Katz’s has been serving pastrami since 1888.
2. Langer’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles, CA): Known for its “No. 19” sandwich, which pairs pastrami with coleslaw and Russian dressing, Langer’s is often called the best pastrami west of the Mississippi.
3. Carnegie Deli (New York, NY): Though it closed in 2016, Carnegie Deli’s towering sandwiches remain legendary.
4. 2nd Avenue Deli (New York, NY): A kosher deli that offers traditional pastrami sandwiches with a focus on authenticity.
5. Pastrami Queen (New York, NY): A newer deli that has quickly gained a reputation for its top-notch pastrami.
Modern Innovations and Variations
In recent years, chefs and food enthusiasts have experimented with pastrami, incorporating it into dishes like tacos, burgers, and even pizza. The rise of artisanal delis and a renewed interest in traditional food preservation techniques have also brought pastrami back into the spotlight.
Outside of the United States, pastrami has found a home in countries like Israel, where it is often made with turkey and served in sandwiches with Israeli flavors. The Romanian roots of pastrami are also celebrated in Eastern Europe, where traditional pastramă dishes remain popular.
Cultural Significance
The pastrami sandwich is more than just a meal—it’s a testament to the immigrant experience, a symbol of cultural fusion, and a cherished part of American culinary history. From its humble beginnings as a way to preserve meat in Romania to its status as an icon of New York City’s food scene, pastrami has endured as a beloved dish.
Today, the pastrami sandwich continues to bring people together, whether in the bustling delis of Manhattan or the kitchens of home cooks experimenting with their own brines and spice blends. Its story is a reminder of the enduring power of food to connect us to our history, our heritage, and each other.
Conclusion
The pastrami sandwich is a classic that has stood the test of time, embodying tradition, innovation, and the melting pot of cultures that define American cuisine. Whether you’re savoring a sandwich at Katz’s or recreating the flavors at home, each bite is a journey through history—one that’s as rich and satisfying as the pastrami itself.
